The Indian government is likely to float second productivity linked investment scheme ( PLI -2) so that other segments of the textile sector can also be promoted, minister of state for textile darshan vikram told fiber2 fasion after the inauguration of Fashion Meet- Expo at Gurugram on Thursday.

Over 500 top fashion buyers, exporters, manufacturers and foreign delegates from Australia, Canada and Korea are participating in the two-day expo organised by the apparel export promation council (AEPC). The minister said that many segments were left out in the previous PLI scheme. “Since the government wants to promote all the segments in the textiles sector, the Ministry of Textiles will prepare a fresh proposal for PLI-2 for approval.”

About the timeline of new PLI scheme, the minister said that the government needs to consider financial implications of the scheme. “PLI scheme will boost textile industry in the country as per government’s vision of Local for Global,” Jardosh said at the inaugural session of the expo.

Recently, the government has announced the selection of 61 investment proposals under PLI with a total investment of ₹19,077 crore. But the target was not fully achieved in terms of investment, employment, business and approved subsidy.

Speaking about the AEPC event, the minister said that such events and expo create vibrancy in the industry and bring buyers-seller on a single platform. She emphasised on the need of diversification in the textiles sector to focus on man-made fibre. “Indian textile industry has vast potential to expand in the global market. India is a leading supplier in a number textile items in global market. India’s share of various products is increasing constantly. But the entire value chain should be developed,” she added.

In his speech at the inaugural session, AEPC chairman Narendra Goenka said, “Indian textile industry has potential to expand its market share in the global market. It needs support from the government to achieve the export target.” He appreciated the government’s initiatives like PLI and other programmes which will be instrumental for further growth.

The Fashion Meet- Expo ’22 hosted by AEPC - BAA - NAEC in collaboration with SOWTEX witnessed a footfall of over 500 fashion buyers, exporters and manufacturers besides participation of foreign delegates from Australia, Canada and Korea. The event included panel discussions, tech talk, tech innovation, and business growth.

Experts from the industry discussed on topics such as conceptualisation of Design Studio at Apparel House, stitching the Value Chain with Sustainability & Traceability, improvement of efficiency using the latest technology, Digital Efficiencies SMART Production Automation and quick & easy Ways to Build Fashion Exports. Industry experts such as Sevraj Syed, Director, TUKATECH, Europe; Puneet Dudeja, Director- Business Development, WGSN; Sonil Jain, Co-Founder & CEO, Sowtex Network; and several others shared their views and insights.

The two-day event aims to digitise textile eco-system and fast track design development process to capitalise on India’s recent FTAs with partner countries and achieve the target of $100 billion fashion exports by 2030.

Alongside the event, there is a showcase of selected 50 fabrics and trims manufacturers and fashion technology companies from India with their product development capabilities along with USPs based on trends, materials, technology to fashion buyers and manufacturers looking for sourcing quality, sustainable and innovative materials for domestic and international markets.

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MSME sector has been a key contributor to the India's GDP and even during the pandemic times, it showed tremendous resilience, helping the economy recover faster from the lockdown market dip. One of the key sectors that have outshone others and registered tremendous growth is the textile and apparel MSMEs. Anurag Singh Khangarot, Co-founder, Aachho, shares his knowledge on  textile MSMEs and how they are creating jobs and employment opportunities in India.

“The textile & apparel industry’s contribution to the country’s GDP is around 5% and in terms of industrial output, the T&A accounts for 7% of the total value, making it one of the most promising industries in India. In fact, the T&A industry in India is one of the largest industries in the world and also the second largest employer in the country. It has generated approximately 45 million jobs directly and over 60 million jobs in allied industries. There have been multiple driving forces behind the monumental growth of the industry and realizing the full potential of each of these dynamics can help the MSMEs to unlock greater employment opportunities for the Indian workforce,” Anurag Singh Khangarot explained.

Textile exports: A booster

“Being the world's 5th biggest T&A exporter, the industry enjoys a 4% share of the $840 billion global markets. The textile exports accounted for US$ 22.89 billion between April 2021 and October 2021. IBEF also suggests that the T&A exports growing at a solid CAGR of 11% are expected to cross $100 bn in the next 5 years.Increasing the exports not only creates foreign reserves but also opens doors for better employment opportunities in the country. Developing MSMEs in the sector to boost exports can create an additional 75 lakh to 1 crore jobs – which is quite a number taking into consideration that the unemployment rate in India stands at 7%,” he added.

More jobs for women 

“T&A sector is one such industry where women account for approximately 60-70% of the total workforce. More than 27 million women in India are employed in the textile and apparel sector. The growing employment opportunities would mean more jobs for women, thus increasing the participation and contribution of the women's workforce in the Indian economy,” he said.

“The textile and apparel industry is on a rise and even with the stiff international competition from Asian countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam, etc., the future of the industry seems brighter owning to its endowed advantages of vast raw material supply (India is amongst the largest producer of cotton yarn and fabric), ample availability of human resources, and faster adoption of advanced textile technologies. Given the sector is able to sustain and increase the domestic as well as export growth, the industry will be able to become of the most lucrative sectors for creating employment and job opportunities for skilled, semi-skilled as well as a portion of unskilled workforce, directly or indirectly,” he concluded.

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The Society of Dyers and Colourists (SDC) has urged the textile coloration industry to harness developments in processes and create a new era of reduced environmental impact in 2022 and beyond. SDC has published a free white paper, ‘Destination low carbon: Global technology and innovation reducing the environmental footprint of textile colouration’.

The white paper aims to summarise exemplary practice, and to inspire the wider sector. The white paper is intended as inspiration for change showcases technology and innovation now minimising use of water, energy, and petrochemicals, SDC said in a press release.

The study includes a total of six case studies from the UK, Switzerland, Sweden, and Germany explain methods developed and established over recent years as well as brand-new innovation including the use of local agricultural waste to create clean dyes, and micro-organisms to synthesise colours of nature – negating the need for petrochemicals.

The SDC is increasingly taking a global lead on the encouragement and promotion of environmental good practice – as well as providing the educational background that makes it possible – in line with members’ interests and concerns in this area.

“We have the technological potential to create a new era for our sector and our white paper is fuel for vital, urgent conversation. We know that many companies are already investing in better practice and ways to achieve circularity, and this is real progress. But much more needs to happen to bring this burgeoning new era into the mainstream,” Andrew Filarowski, technical director of the SDC, said. The SDC is calling on its network and the wider dyeing and coloration industry to use the white paper to help devise and deliver carbon lowering improvements across operations.

According to the latest figures from the National Statistics Institute (INE) and backed up by figures from the ATP (Portuguese Textile and Clothing Association), Portuguese textile and clothing exports reached €553 million in July and an accumulated €3.1Bn since January, exceeding the pre-pandemic sales recorded in 2019.
The ATP announced that in July the sector’s exports totalled €553 million, increasing by around 4% on July 2019.
It brings the accumulated total for the first six months of the year to €3.1Bn worth of exported goods, registering a small increase of 0.2% on the same period in 2019.
The ATP notes, however, that there are “still huge differences in terms of activities and products.”
On the positive side, sales of bedding, table cloths and kitchen-related textiles soared +€67 million, up 24%. Shirts, cardigans, jackets and woollen articles were +€47 million or +19% while made-up textile articles including dress patterns, textile masks and similar were +€28 million, +162%.
In terms of suits, coats, trousers, jump suits and shorts for men, exports were up +€22 million (45%), articles with 85% or more cotton (+€12 million, +20%) and baby clothes +€11 million, +28%.
On the other hand, clothing products that suffered the greatest falls in this period were ladies suits, coats, dresses, skirts and shorts (€-62 million; -32%) and t-shirts and knitwear vests (€-27 million; -5%).
According to the association, the products that sold the best in both the national and international markets were bedding, table cloths, kitchen fabrics and woollen shirts, cardigans and waistcoats.
In terms of export countries, the markets that were most dynamic were France and the US which grew by €57 million (+14%) and €46 million (+23%) respectively compared to the periods of January to July 2020 and 2019. Exports to Spain, however, fell by €172 million (-18%).

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Dubai's multi-billion dollar textile trade has been rightly described as one of the building blocks in Dubai's push to diversify its economic base.
It has been a topsy-turvy ride for the sector in the recent past, but the trade has emerged strongly from its tribulations. It is a very confident sector which braces for the next upturn in the tide. The prospect of a boom inspired by Iraq looms, as do developments such as Dubai Textile City and the scrapping of import quotas by the U.S. in 2005. Manoj nair investigates the state of the textile market. Iraq - one word that has Dubai's Dh9 billion a year textile trade in a gush of anticipation. Within weeks of the conflict being resolved, there were initial approaches made by Iraqi traders in Dubai.  While no firm deals have materialised to date, sources here believe it is just a matter of time. "Iraq is one market waiting to explode, and Dubai's textile trade will immediately seize upon the opportunities that will be thrown up there," said Ashok Sawlani, vice-chairman of Texmas, the 300-member industry grouping of textile traders. "It could be within the space of the next few weeks that a breakthrough will come about. By any measure, there is fairly good cash - in dollars - starting to circulate - in Iraq, and soon this should materialise into actual orders."
"In the last year or two, Dubai is sending out textiles to the entire continent, while in earlier decades, our sphere of coverage was limited to East Africa," said Mahesh Advani, secretary of Texmas. "Cash is paid up front by the buyers, which is another big plus." According to industry sources, Africa will, in coming years, only increase its offtake of textiles from Dubai.

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At Texport Industries' factories in India's south, thousands of mostly women workers are busy converting yarn and fabrics into T-shirts, shirts, spaghetti tops and kids' clothes for U.S. customers of Tommy Hilfiger and Kohl's Corp.  "We have been so busy," said Parashuram, the head of one of the Texport factories who goes by one name, as a batch of 60 new women recruits practiced stitching. "We are constantly looking to hire workers." The company is scouting for land to add new factories around its main production base in Hindupur, about 100 km (60 miles) north of tech hub Bengaluru. Sustained success for the textile and apparel (T&A) industry, the country's biggest employer after farming, is crucial if Modi is to succeed in taming unemployment.

HIGHER LABOUR COSTS

India is the world's fifth biggest T&A exporter with a 4% share of the $840 billion global market, while China controls more than a third of it. India's exports were on a par with closest rival Bangladesh about a decade ago but have lagged in recent years - especially on garments - partly due to higher labour costs that make Indian clothes some 20% costlier. Indian T&A companies say they are now adding new clients, selling more to old ones and raising production capacity as foreign buyers seek to diversify their supply chains. Other than China, only India has a big supply chain of everything from cotton to garments.

Still, some industry leaders said that unless India signed free trade agreements with Western countries - which New Delhi says it is working on - it would not be easy to outsell Bangladesh, which also enjoys preferential export terms from many buyers as a least developed country. Indian companies such as Texport, Welspun India and Raymond - whose buyers include Western retailers Amazon, Target, Costco, Walmart Inc, Tesco and Macy's - have managed to lift sales in recent quarters.

Modi wants them to create some 1.5 million jobs in the sector over the next five years or so. India's junior textiles minister, Darshana Jardosh, on Wednesday listed recent announcements to support the industry, such as setting up seven huge all-in-one textile parks for about $600 million to further increase employment and make it easier for foreign buyers to place orders and monitor supply chains. The government has also proposed production-linked incentives worth $1.4 billion.

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